The show opened with an ivory palette

The show opened with an ivory palette
John Paul Gaultier show hearkened back to the old days, and the easy way fashion shows were presented then, with each model holding up a number as a commentator described the ensemble she wore. Of course, Gaultier took things a step further by revealing to guests his two-story scaffold “backstage” area, allowing us to watch as the models got ready for the catwalk. The clothes were Gaultier at his understated best: tailored pinstripes and trenches, romantic gowns and sexy lingerie.
Tattoo designs surfaced in wonderful ways at Gaultier, appearing on stockings and stamped on nude leather pieces. “It’s amazing how bourgeois tattoos have become!” laughed Gaultier. So although he featured two elaborately tattooed women, Gaultier’s suggestion to satisfy a desire for tattoos with his delicate hosiery and fine mesh pieces is much easier than getting inked. Over at Hermès, Christopher Lemaire’s vision for spring spoke of a quiet, spiritual ease and it’s clear the designer, who succeeded Gaultier at the luxury house a few seasons ago, has put his own stamp on the coveted label. The show opened with an ivory palette, then gave way to exotic spice colours in silks and soft leathers.
Cuts were clean, simple and uncomplicated, a sensibility that smacked of a moneyed Hermès woman’s understated and luxurious ease.“Looks like she’s got her sexy back!” said former Beatle Paul McCartney after designer daughter Stella sent out a spirited collection that riffed on retro pyjama prints and cut-outs of sporty airtex mesh and lace.
These looks, with their hits of cobalt blue, are bound to bring paisley back in a big way. Interesting swirls and curlicues, enhanced by their bold embroidered finishes, gave an artful and playful nod to a collection that was, as the program notes promised, both optimistic and effortless”. “I really want to make things easy for women,” said McCartney, a mother of four. “I looked at men’s pyjamas, and thought it would be fun to translate that feel into a wardrobe for woman that was relaxed but versatile.”
Clare Waight Keller, the label’s new creative director whose impressive track record includes stints at Gucci, Calvin Klein and Pringle, took pleats to a new high. “I love the flow and ease you can get with pleating,” said Waight Keller. And she hit the mark every time: with long, flowing, pleated dresses, with shirt-dresses and with a variety of shorts. Colourful floral embroidery added to the charm, especially when they crawled up pant legs.